Khartoum, Sudan - arriving....

Sudan, is an Arab State in North Africa. It is bordered by Egypt to the north, the Red Sea to the northeast, Eritrea and Ethiopia to the east, South Sudan to the south, the Central African Republic to the southwest, Chad to the west, and Libya to the northwest. The population of Sudan is a combination of indigenous inhabitants of Nile Valley, and descendants of migrants from the Arabian Peninsula. Due to the process of Arabisation common throughout the rest of the Arab World, today Arab culture predominates in Sudan. The majority of the population of Sudan adheres to Islam. 

The people of Sudan have a long history extending from antiquity which is intertwined with the history of Egypt. Sudan suffered seventeen years of civil war during the First Sudanese Civil War (1955–1972) followed by ethnic, religious and economic conflicts between the Muslim Arabs of Sudan or Northern Sudan and the mostly animist and Christian Nilotes of Southern Sudan. This led to the Second Sudanese Civil War in 1983. Because of continuing political and military struggles, Sudan was seized in a bloodless coup d'état by colonel Omar al-Bashir in 1989, who thereafter proclaimed himself President of Sudan. The civil war ended with the signing of a Comprehensive Peace Agreement which granted autonomy to what was then the southern region of the country. Following a referendum held in January 2011, South Sudan seceded on 9 July 2011 with the consent of Sudan's President al-Bashir.


A member of the United Nations, Sudan also maintains membership with the African Union, the Arab League, the Organisation of Islamic Cooperation, and the Non-Aligned Movement, as well as serving as an observer in the World Trade Organization. Its capital is Khartoum, which serves as the political, cultural and commercial centre of the nation. Officially a federal presidential representative democratic republic, the politics of Sudan are widely considered by the international community to take place within an authoritarian system due to the control of the National Congress Party (NCP) of the judiciary, executive and legislative branches of government.

Khartoum 

is the capital and second largest city of Sudan and of Khartoum State. It is located at the confluence of the White Nile flowing north from Lake Victoria and the Blue Nile flowing west from Ethiopia. The location where the two Niles meet is known as "al-Mogran", meaning the Confluence. The main Nile continues to flow north towards Egypt and the Mediterranean Sea.

Divided by the Niles, Khartoum is a tripartite metropolis with an estimated overall population of over five million people consisting of Khartoum proper, and linked by bridges to Khartoum North called (al-Khartūm Bahrī) and Omdurman (Umm Durmān) to the west.

Khartoum was established 15 miles (24 km) north of the ancient city of Soba in 1821 by Ibrahim Pasha, the son of Egypt's ruler, Muhammad Ali Pasha, who had just incorporated Sudan into his realm. 

Khartoum features a hot desert climate, with only the months of July and August seeing significant precipitation. Based on annual mean temperatures, Khartoum is one of the hottest major cities in the world. Temperatures may exceed 53 °C in mid-summer.Furthermore, none of its monthly average high temperatures falls below 30 °C.

The first time I came to Khartoum 2 years ago for Hisham's funeral, I wasn't really present.... wasn't interested in my environment.  The second time I came, I still was only interested in spending time with the extended family.  This time, I came as a tourist.... I found a travel guide book online, which I bought and I read up on all the things to do in and around Khartoum.  I am here and I am present!  and eager to explore....just sad Hisham is not with me in body to show me his country!... but he certainly is here in spirit - I can feel him!

The family home is in Bahri (Khartoum North), close to where Walid works. Najeeb is still working hard looking after the household.  Mahassin, since her fall and broken ankle 2 years ago, has become a bit insecure walking, and now uses a walking stick....  but she is still keen to get out and about.

The first couple of days were quiet, spent at home.  Just sitting with Mahassin and talking and being together. We had a few phone calls from family to say hi.... so nice, can't wait to catch up with everyone!

Mahassin bought some nile perch for me, and makes me legimate - my favourite!  Yummie, the food here is so tasty and fresh. I laugh the aubergine salad, the kisra (local bread) and everything...

It is 34C - hot for me, but both Mahassin and Walid keep saying they feel cold!  Yes you heard me right: cold!... I just laughed at them.....(dare I say it -17C in Germany...).

On Saturday, Walid took us for coffee to a nice restaurant called 'Solitaire' in the suburb of Riyad - we had tea / coffee and relaxed.  Then we headed to Ahsan's place (Mahassin's sister) to say a quick hello.

 On Sunday we had visitors; Salma and her daughters Enas, Enar, Elaf and Eman came to welcome me - so nice to see them all again.  They used to live in Abu Dhabi, and the youngest daughter is now at University - I knew her when she was a little girl.... and now she is a young lady!  How time moves on.....Mohammed Suleiman was the first relative I was introduced to by Hisham in 1998.........

Some first impressions of Khartoum, while driving (being driven) around....

I need to start planning what I want to do and where I want to go and how.... I've just been drifting and taking it all in.....

Sabine, Dougal, Lionheart...